In the newer 960 model (so-called round dashboard) instrument cluster removal is slightly different than in older angular dashboard models, as it requires more careful handling of dashboard trims and frames.

In the newer dashboard, the instrument cluster is held behind a plastic frame bezel. Preparation: Lower the steering wheel to its lowest position and pull it as close to the driver as possible (if the car has adjustment). Frame bezel: The black plastic frame around the instrument cluster is held by clips. Carefully pry the frame from the edges (e.g., with a plastic pry tool) until it comes free. Warning: Plastic is brittle, do not use a metal screwdriver directly against the dashboard. Fastening screws: Once the frame is off, you see the cluster on its sides two or four screws (usually Torx T25). Unscrew them. Withdrawal: Tilt the instrument cluster's top edge toward you and carefully lift it out of its pocket. Disconnect the multipin connectors behind it. They usually have a locking lever that must be turned open.

The older model's (angular dashboard) removal more closely resembles Volvo 740/940 models: Difference: The cluster sides have small plastic covers (grilles) under which are spring-loaded locking pins or screws. They are pressed in or opened, causing the cluster to slide out. Bulbs: The older cluster often has more individual wires behind it, whereas the newer one has centralized multipin connectors.

Bulb types are largely the same in both models, but there are certain standards: Target / Bulb Type / Quantity Background lighting (general light) / T10 (W5W) glass base / 2–4 pcs Warning lights (oil, turn signals, etc.) / T5 (1.2W) plastic base (B8.5D) / Multiple LCD displays (clock/temperature) / T5 (1.2W) or smaller special base / 1–2 pcs Note: In newer 960/S90 models, warning light bulbs often come with plastic bases (so-called twist-lock), meaning the entire base is unscrewed from the circuit board.

Airbag light: If you turn on power with the cluster out, the SRS light (Airbag) will light up and stay lit. It must be reset with a diagnostic scanner. Keep power off the entire job. Temperature gauge: If the multipin connector behind the cluster doesn't sit perfectly, the temperature or fuel gauge may read incorrectly. Make sure connectors snap to the bottom. LED upgrade: If you replace with LED bulbs, remember polarity (+/-). If the LED doesn't light, flip it 180 degrees. Also note that the cluster's dimmer may not work with all LED models.